Dorji learned early that mornings in Bhutan are never silent.
Even before the sun reached the valley, there was always movement — fire being lit, water boiling, and the steady preparation of tea over a wood stove.
In his home, that sound always meant the same thing. The day had begun.
One cold morning, he was called closer to the kitchen fire.
There was no explanation. Only a wooden churn placed into his hands and a pot of dark tea waiting nearby.
“This is how you make suja,” came the voice beside him.
Ingredients for Suja
4 cups water
2–3 tablespoons strong black tea leaves
2–3 tablespoons unsalted butter (traditionally yak butter, but cow butter is commonly used)
¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste(optional) a splash of milk
Suja is one of those Bhutanese traditions that does not belong to a single fixed recipe. Every household makes it differently — some stronger, some saltier, some richer with more butter. The taste often reflects not just preference, but altitude, climate, and family habit.
Boiling water met the tea leaves first, slowly turning the liquid into a deep brown. The change happened without urgency, as if it had been happening long before he was even born.
The kitchen smelled strong — earthy, slightly bitter, and familiar in a way Dorji never thought to question.
When the tea was ready, it was poured into the churn. Butter followed. Then salt.
Dorji began to move the handle.
At first carefully. Then with rhythm.
The sound filled the room, mixing with the crackle of firewood and the wind pressing softly against the windows.
Nothing about it felt refined. Suja was never meant to be refined.
When it was finally poured into bowls, it looked simple but dense, like warmth made visible.
He took a sip.
It came in layers — heat first, then richness, then a quiet saltiness that stayed longer than expected.
On most mornings, it was served with simple snacks — sometimes zao, sometimes biscuits, and often whatever was available near the kitchen fire. Nothing elaborate. Just small things to eat alongside tea, without interrupting the rhythm of the morning.
In Bhutanese homes, suja is never just a drink on its own. It sits quietly at the center of daily life — poured for guests without asking what they prefer, shared during long conversations, and offered again when silence feels easier than words.
Hospitality is rarely spoken in Bhutan. It is shown.
A bowl of suja placed in front of someone is not just tea. It is an invitation to stay a little longer, to slow down, to let time inside the house move differently from time outside.
Even in villages shaped by farming seasons and long distances between homes, suja remains constant. It appears in cold mornings, in pauses after work, and in the simple act of sitting together without needing a reason.
Dorji never thought of it as something special.
Because in his world, it was not.
It was ordinary in the way breathing is ordinary.
And yet it held everything together quietly.
No one explained suja when he was growing up.
It was simply there.
Offered in the morning. Shared after long walks. Served without ceremony when someone returned from the cold.
Some travelers pause the first time they try it. Others drink it slowly, trying to understand it.
Dorji never tried to explain it to them.
Because suja was never meant to be understood quickly.
It was meant to be lived with.
Because suja is not just Bhutanese butter tea.
It is rhythm, warmth, and the quiet way life begins in the mountains.
About MyBhutan | Luxury Travel & Private Journeys in Bhutan
MyBhutan is a boutique luxury travel house specializing in private journeys across Bhutan. We curate bespoke Bhutan experiences for discerning travelers seeking rare access, cultural depth, and refined Himalayan hospitality.
From sacred monasteries to our exclusive hidden Sangwa Camps, each journey is shaped through personal consultation and long-standing local relationships — offering access beyond conventional Bhutan tour experiences.
With MyBhutan, luxury in Bhutan is defined by discretion, authenticity, and meaningful connection.
Photography by Michael Marquand | Matthew DeSantis
All photographs taken while on assignment with MyBhutan